Naveen in his Coconut Island

“IT’S all about Sri Lanka,” Naveen tells me of Coconut Island at Angel. Maybe you’ve been there, and want to escape London’s wet cobbles for an evening’s reminder of island life. Or maybe you’re unfamiliar with the street food of Mirissa’s Coconut Tree Hill in Sri Lanka, which stretches into the sun-dappled Indian Ocean, and want to put that right.

I was in the second camp. Naveen’s eyes lit up as he told tales of palm beaches, surfing and fresh fish. Would I like a local beer? Of course.

Two sips in, Naveen ushers me to the bar. He’s mixing a “Fire It Up”, with lashings of rum and pineapple. Grinning, he grabs a blowtorch and sets it ablaze. I have a glug – it’s delightfully nutmegy, with bursts of charcoaled sweetness.

Vast murals cover every inch of wall, painted by Naveen’s friends, I’m told. He gives a tour of the premises as if it were his own hidden beach retreat, before finding me a seat beneath a woven bamboo canopy.

Plates of food arrive and don’t stop coming – an egg hopper, plump prawns, chicken kothu.

There’s plenty for vegans, too, with soft roti and a creamy, fresh dhal, which invites mopping up until the bowl is dry.

It’s difficult to split attention between delicacies as more find their way to my table.

The Black Pork is a standout. Smoky, layered and light, it melts on the tongue. As with all dishes here, spice plays a supporting role, deepening flavours that continually surprise and evolve.

Coconut sambol cuts through with a cool zing, resetting the palate for those lightly battered prawns, topped with a sprinkling of chilli and lemon.

I’m getting full, but can’t turn down the advances of the wafer-thin hopper, which holds a gooey egg and sharp relish.

Nothing goes to waste; leftovers from my feast are gratefully scooped into takeaway boxes as I choose my next cocktail.

If it weren’t for the impressive food offering, this place could give it a go as a bar-cum-nightclub. Music creeps up as night draws in, drinks flowing all the while. A group of colleagues dance in the corner and order another round of tequilas.

Coconut Island wears two hats – serving up intricate dishes while laying on an offhand party atmosphere. Naveen and his team make this groove look effortless, but there’s a carefully considered balance and restraint to flavours and service here.

I, on the other hand, don’t possess the same restraint. The appeal of dessert takes hold, and I tuck into a silky, nutty Wattalapam. I don’t want to leave yet… it’s sunny in here.

The Coconut Island
9 White Lion Street, N1 9PD
020 4618 3901
www.thecoconutisland.com